History

India is smitten by gold and how! This metal is the epitome of heritage, prosperity and opulence. Its warmth and traditional appeal makes it a true classic piece of any bridal jewellery. The charm of gold dates back to 2600 BC when Egyptians revered Gold as an indestructible and a divine metal. Romans rekindled this relationship and took it to another level by mass producing it. India’s love affair with gold starts with mythological tales of how Gods rode on chariots made of gold. Over centuries this liaison has helped Gold become an inseparable part of the Indian psyche.

Persona

India, one of the world’s largest gold consumers, is a significant market for gold jewellery. In the last decade itself, about 75% of gold demand has been for gold jewellery alone. Through ages, gold has not only been used for jewellery but is also vital for technological applications and innovation. Characterized by a distinct yellow colour, this metal is resistant to tarnish, rust and even corrosion. Pure gold is so soft that it can be moulded with someone’s bare hands. Hence, 24K pure gold is never used for jewellery. 22K gold is 22 parts gold and 2 parts of other additional metals which makes it 91.6% pure. The next in line is 18K gold which is 75% pure and is usually alloyed with metals like silver, copper, nickel and zinc for added strength and durability. Gold is a metal that can complement any occasion. Whether you choose to wear it every day or as traditional gold wedding jewellery, it never fails to lure admirers.

9K gold denotes 37.5% gold purity. 9K is the minimum standard used in India and is widely used for making profound jewellery to minimize the cost.

14K gold denotes 58.3% gold purity and it often comes stamped with 585.

18k gold denotes 75.0% gold purity. 18K is highly recommended for fine jewellery.

22K gold denotes 91.6% gold purity. Gold in 22K is very soft and is not suitable for manufacturing studded jewellery. It can be used for plain gold jewellery.

24K gold denotes 100% gold purity. Gold in this form is extremely soft and cannot be used for any type of Jewellery making.

About Colour Gold

Yellow Gold : Natural gold and color-saturated alloys are what give yellow gold jewelry its rich shine. The alloys most commonly used, are copper with a red hue, and silver featuring a green hue. An expert mixture of copper, silver and pure gold gives this precious metal its original color.

Rose Gold : Rose gold, also known as pink or red gold, is created by increasing the copper-colored alloys mixed with the gold and decreasing the silver-colored alloys. 14K rose gold is slightly pinker in color compared to 14K gold because there is more copper in the alloy compared to the amount of copper in 14K gold alloy. 18 k gold, containing 25% copper is found in antique and Russian jewelry and has a distinct, though not dominant, copper cast, creating rose gold.

White Gold : To give White Gold its brilliant shiny white luster, the final process of making White Gold involves plating the metal with a layer of Rhodium. Rhodium is a shiny white metal, which is extremely hard and durable. Over time, with regular wear, the Rhodium plating may wear off revealing the yellow Gold underneath, and can be easily repaired by a jeweler who can redo the Rhodium plating. White gold alloys can be made with palladium or nickel. White 18-carat gold containing 17.3% nickel, 5.5% zinc and 2.2% copper is silvery in appearance. High-carat white gold alloys are far more resistant to corrosion than are either pure silver or sterling silver.

Worth its weight in Gold

Economies have been underpinned by the value of gold. That just shows that this metal is held in high regard by all countries. Owning gold jewellery in form of gold bangles, gold rings and even gold earrings make for a great investment option. Many Indians prefer buying 24K gold coins over gold jewellery when they choose to invest in gold.

The price you ultimately pay for your gold jewels depends on the current market value, its purity, weight and of course the craftsmanship of the design.

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The roots of Polki diamonds can be traced back to India long before they were popular in the west, and are one of the oldest forms of cut diamonds. They are cut to follow the original rough and have an unfaceted, unpolished surface. While, they are largely used in traditional jewellery and are used mainly on festive occasions, western designers can be credited for making these classic diamonds more contemporary and coupling them with red carpet looks thus making this entire segment younger and trendier.

Jadau was the first art form in jewellery that originated in the indo Gangetic plains. It was started in Rajasthan and Gujarat during the Mughal era. Jadau requires a team of artisans involved together to complete one piece of jewellery. A design is conceptualised by the designer. Following the design The Chiterias (mould specialists) make the basic frame as per the jewellery sketch. Once the mould is ready The Ghaarias are responsible for the engraving the mould to give an ethnic old-world feel. The mould is in 22 karat usually helping the metal to be malleable hence the artisan can sculpt an intricate design. The next process is enameling or Meenakari which is done by the enameller and finally the Jadia or setter takes Care of the Kundan or gold which is in 24 karat to set the highly delicate uncut diamonds or Polkis.

If you would ever come across a diamond in the rough, you would probably not even look at it twice. But if the same piece of brilliance was presented to you in all its shine, you would find it hard to put it down. This charm manifests only due to its characteristic beauty; beauty that can be handcrafted to perfection.

History of Diamonds

Diamonds have always been considered as a mark of purity, durability and luxury. From the ancients Greeks to the modern day, many are enamoured by its scintillating beauty and sparkle. Greeks believed that diamonds were tears of God and shards of Stars. Experts suggest that diamonds were first found in India in 800 BC and Alexander the Great brought the first diamonds to Europe in 327 BC from India.

The significance of diamonds as an epitome of love dates back to 1447 when Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a diamond ring as ‘promise of marriage‘. This tradition can be traced back to the middle ages and roman times. In fact, Italians believed diamonds could sustain harmony between couples and from there came the tradition of setting a diamond in wedding rings.

Journey of Diamonds

Formation

Diamonds are known to make a long arduous journey before they reach your jewellery box. The story of a diamond begins 100-200 miles below the Earth's surface. Diamonds were formed billions of years ago due to extensive heat and pressure on carbon crystals. Subsequently, volcanic activity forced diamonds up Earth's surface through pipes or openings in the Earth. Some of them made their way to river beds, streams and seas but the majority of diamonds settled back into the Kimberlite pipes. It is said that the first diamonds were found as glittering pebbles near the course of an ancient river.

Mining

Once the diamonds are found, the process to obtain them can be long and cumbersome. It is said that it takes more than 250 tonnes of ore to produce just 1 carat of rough diamond. The ore goes through different stages of blasting, crushing and processing to procure the diamonds.

Sorting

Now that the rough diamonds have been released from the ore, they go through sorting and classification according to their shape, size, quality and colour. Before they're passed on to diamond cutters, expert sorters scan these rough pieces under X-rays which enables them to detect and sort them for their natural characteristics.

Diamond Cutting and Polishing

The diamonds are then brought to life by master craftsmen who transform the rough diamonds to a sparkling expression of deep emotion. Using meticulous and laborious cutting methods, its brilliance is revealed. The cutter uses cleaving, sawing or laser cutting to separate the original rough into smaller, workable pieces. The bruter grinds the stone’s edges for that remarkable outline. Faceting trails next where 18 facets of the table, pavilion, culet and bezel are cut and polished then the next 40 facets – star facets, upper and lower girdle facets follow suit. Although, most of the polishing work is computerized, some of the work is still done by hand to bring out its true shine. The best cutting process brings out maximum brilliance and most carat weight. An ideal cut and polished diamond, even if small in size, will stand out more than a poorly cut big diamond. In fact, Mumbai is one of the key diamond cutting and trading centres in the world.

Manufacturing and Setting

The finished gem is then boiled in acids to get rid of all dust and oil. The diamonds are now ready to go out into the world and be set into finished pieces of jewellery. They are sold to either wholesalers, who work as middlemen to sell the manufacturer's goods to the retailer or sold directly to the retailer by the manufacturer.

From jewellery showrooms and retailers, it slowly makes way into hearts of buyers as eternal memories and moments of joy.

Among traditional Indian jewellery, Kundan has remained popular for its beauty and intricacy.

India is a country known for its diverse culture, religion, arts and crafts. It is famous not just for its rich fabrics but also its traditional jewellery. There's an abundance of designs, styles and types for one to choose from. One of the most famous types of jewellery is kundan, which is an ancient form of jewellery that is adorned with gemstones and gold foil. Kundan is considered to be royal because it's production is believed to have been originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan centuries ago. Some also call it Bikaneri or Jaipuri jewellery.

The word 'kundan' implies highly refined gold. The jewellery gets its name because of the skilled craftsmanship of encasing glass or gemstones in a base of gold foil made of highly refined and pure form of molten gold. It's production process also involves enameling with vivid colours on the reverse while the kundan design is on the front. It has a rich legacy of over 2500 years. Kundan jewellery is really precious and is worth knowing about it since the beginning of its production. It is said to have originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and further flourished under the royal patronage of the Mughal era. Its origin can also be traced back to 3rd century BCE. A variation of gold jewellery, kundan was a staple in royal wardrobes, where it was commonly worn as part of bridal jewellery too. Kundan jewellery portrayed by Aishwarya Rai in the movie Jodhaa Akbar particularly highlighted its significance and influence among Rajasthani royals.

Kundan is often confused with polki jewellery, which is made of uncut diamonds. Though they may have similarity in designs, the technique of making both types of jewellery are different. The process of making kundan jewellery requires attention and delicacy. Its base is formed by beating gold into strips, which is then shaped accordingly as per preference. It doesn't have high content of gold in it as the precious stones glorify its appearance. Glass stones such as emerald, sapphire and rubies are carefully set in the base to form what is called kundan. It has intricate detailing which makes it more attractive.

Jadau work was introduced in India by the Mughals, but practiced and perfected by the skilled craftsman of Rajasthan, which to date is considered as the hub of jadau jewellery. It is essentially a technique of jewellery-making wherein precious gemstones such as uncut diamonds, pearls, emeralds and rubies are embedded into gold. Gold is actually turned into a frame on which precious stones are studded without the use of any adhesive. Jadau derives its name from the colloquial term ‘jad’ (which means to embed), and is commonly used in kundan, polki and meenakari jewellery. The design of the jewellery is made by [a group of artisans called the] Chiterias, followed by engraving and spacing using pliable gold, which is done by Ghaarias. Once the stones are naturally set in the gold casing, the enameller decorates the back of the jewellery in meenakari work. The time to produce jadau jewellery varies, depending upon the piece that is being created. It’s a tedious process requiring utmost care and finesse. So while a smaller piece can be finished in a couple of days, an elaborate piece can actually take up to a few months to be ready. It’s one of the oldest techniques of jewellery-making, and has an interesting history behind it. The Mughals introduced it to India, but this workmanship was perfected and made native by the artisans of Rajasthan and Gujarat. It requires a skilled and unique craftsmanship, which of course, makes it very compelling. The traditional form of jewellery is made without any interference of technology, which increases the man hours [it takes to create it], and makes it extremely valuable. It’s pure hand work. It is surely a reminder of the rich cultural heritage of our country.